.....Hazard Warning Lights, New Idea!.....

What a clever idea to have hazard warning lights on motorcycle, many bikes have had them for a lot of years.  So why is it that Mr Suzuki decided to put them on our bikes but only allow them to be used while the ignition is on and the light are draining the battery.
So this is another job that needs addressing and I will have to have a go at rewiring them so that they can be used without the ignition being in the on position.

Just wondered if anyone else had either thought about bypassing the ignition with the hazard light or even better had already done it? Any ideas or feed back as always is welcomed.

sounds like a fair idear as not only will your hazards be on but as soon as you turn the ignition your front and back lights are on and allso draining the batteri be interesting to see what you can come up with as it apply's to all bikes now days

All that is needed to do this is to cut the wire that goes to the ignition switched live & splice into a permanent live, Probably a little easier said than done but still an easy task.

Sorry for reviving the dead here but has anyone looked into this further?  My Rauder doesn't even have Hazards.... so I'm looking at adding them... trying to decide if I want them to go went key isn't in.. or have them only when key is in P..or your style... looked around and got a few diagrams with relays etc...

It has never been mentioned by anyone and is still something that I wish to do at some point do. Shouldn't be very hard to do even with your model but will be a great mod when you have done it.

Well with my model (going though schematics) have two options... install a 3 wire button from ebay (see pic) and wire it how it's wired on your bike.


one wire to LS, Middle wire to OEM relay, other wire to RS.  This is how it's wired on your & newer bikes... only problem as you mentioned bike has to be on and won't work in P or off (useless)..

Method 2 (most likely the way I'm doing it.

[*]----->A common electromechanical flasher. These are available at most auto supply stores. I used the regular electromechanical one b/c the load of the blinkers is enough to flash it. However, if you have LED blinkers, you will need a solid state flasher.





[*]----->2x Diodes. I know, not super specific, but just a common diode that can handle 12V will handle the amps of the blinkers. Any 1N400X series should work.





[*]----->Some sort of switch. I'm using regular push button switch, but you can use a toggle or anything you want.

Wire as follows: 12V contstant (bat) to switch (with inline fuse) then as per diagram:


and voila you can now leave the 4 ways on take the key and go get petrol.  For your bike (or any with OEM hazards) you can do it this way (by adding a new switch or disconnect yours and use your switch with this wiring.)

Suggestions are welcome....

Very well thought out, this will com in very handy indeed.  

Thanks... was up until 3am thinking about this lol... then got up at 6 am to get my sons ready for school bus... Coffee is a wonderful thing lol..

Clever mod 

Still working on this... trying to figure out a way for you guys with an OEM hazard to have it functional when the Key is out without having to add a second flasher relay....  03+ 800's have 2 circuits

Brown wire runs from ING switch -- Pos side of flasher relay & to the front and rear Position lights
Light Blue wire runs from Neg side of flasher relay to the Hazard switch & to the Turn signal switch...

Orange with Green tracer "Signal fuse (#5)" also connects to Pilot Lamp (Turn indicator), Front & Rear Brake lamp switch, Speedo, & Horn....

Trying to have the Hazard (signal) Lamps active without having the others on (battery drain) is proving to be a little difficult...

97-02 is a little simpler.... Brown wire is Isolated from the turn signal circuit.. Wiring goes as such..

Orange Green tracer from fuse #4 (signal) runs to Pos side of turn relay, Front & Rear brake switch, Horn, & Water temp indicator light.

My theory is add a button that is wired like the 03+ models then snip the O/G wire going into the Pos side of relay and directly wire a constant to it. (by snipping it there it isolates the other circuits that will still have power when the key is on & no power when you remove the key.)

And this will eliminate having to add a second flasher relay and diodes....

Any thoughts?

No thoughts apart from, oh my word, that is a real gentlemanly thing to do or even to attempt to do.  

Problem is it's hard to figure things out without having any practical application..  Just wish I had access to a newer bike to run some testing... Any volunteers?

From what I'm thinking, looking at schematics (if you have one you can follow me here)  your bike's need to have the two circuits energized but isolated from the rest.. This is where I'm at so far.

First part is easy... Run constant, fused to Brown wire at turn relay (with diode to prevent feed back into system).  This will energize the relay without having your position lights on.  (At this point I would test to see if this is enough or have to go further on)

If we have to go further on....

Now this is where I'm stumped.  O/G wire coming from the fuse goes into Pilot Lamp on tank.  I don't know if it powers any thing else in the Pilot Lamp setup but from there it's distributed and becomes the Blue + for the Left, and Light Green + for the Right signal.  Some how we have to energize these without feed back.  A possibility would be to also run a constant fused feed with diodes.

With the 97-03 models my theory is that only the O/G wire needs to be energized at the relay (with diode or cut completely) and of course have a switch installed...  Going to pick up a switch tomorrow and going to test it out on my bike...

Of course if you want to stay simple.  You can always go with the diagram that I provided above but that will require you to add another switch and relay.

Ok, figured I'd post my progress here... right now just focusing on 97-02 models as the foundation for 03+ models. Basically if I were to just add the switch posted above (Blue to RS, White to LS, & R/W to Light Blue from relay) I'll have the same problem of having to leave the key in for the Hazards.

KEEP IN MIND THIS HASN'T BEEN TESTED YET  (I'll post when confirmed)

Here is my idea.

OEM wiring O comes from ignition switch to O/G (signal) fuse
O/G feeds up and is distributed to Turn Relay and other circuits.

I personally don't like using diodes so I'm going to put in a relay that will switch between power sources depending if the key is in the on position or off.

Cut O/G wire At Turn relay (this will isolate other circuits that are attached)
Connect O/G wire from Turn relay to Pin 30 of new relay
Connect other end of O/G from fuse box to pin 87

Run wire from pin 85 to earth
Run fused wire to Positive of Battery to Pin 87A
Run wire from pin 86 & tap into O wire coming from ignition.

This is what's happening... when Bike is Off
Hazards/Turn signals relay is getting direct power allowing them to function and isolating other circuits form powering up through pin 87A.

When bike is on Relay receives signal from O wire switching power source from 87A to 87.  This allows the circuit to function through the OEM wiring...

Jesus!! from someone who is crap with anything to do with wiring  bloody well done mate great mod for anyone who would like to do it and very well thought out

Thanks... but my end game is to have it figured out for 04+ models.... Just love a challenge :)

That is just amazing that you have been able to work that out, I am amazed at your ability.

Thanks..

You are a gem, well done for being able to work that out 

Confirmed!....  This works... just remember to add a fuse between battery and post 87A.  Also you need to install the switch above.

Still pondering on the newer bikes... it looks like both O/G from fuse and (definitely Br going into relay) needs to be energized.

Pre 97- 03 was simple because O/G powers relay and lights...

CanadianCruiser wrote:

Can someone do me a favor...... put your key to the "P" position and see if your hazards work... if they do then you can just pull the key out.....
If it doesn't then let me know... Now I have a better foundation...

this changes how I'm going to wire mine now.... leave it to my son's to figure this out lol...

On my 2010 model the ignition needs to be in the on position, no other position will allow the indicators/four way flashers to work in any way without modification in some way.

Ok so not even in "P"?  because the diagram shows the that the turn relay is energized (Brown wire runs from ignition to relay & to position lights) and this is all I have to do...

Anyways this is half the problem solved   

I think what's happening is inside the Pilot Lamp cluster it's completing the connections there....
I believe what you need to do here is run a wire from the Brown wire (power source) to the O/G wire somewhere close to the Pilot lamp cluster with diodes preventing unwanted power up of unneeded circuits and one on the Brown to prevent backflow when bike is running...

On mine when I energize wire going into OEM relay that allows my signals and new hazards to work. (this is how i'm going to wire it.... ignition has to be set to "P" then I can take my keys with me.

I think I've done all I can to this point... (unless I buy a new bike lol....) Hopefully one of you can finish off they second part of this puzzle..

Just to recap for future searches regarding this:

97-02 800's Can have functional Hazard's (4-way) & signals with out having to have the key in the ignition by using the "P" position in on the ignition or when key is "On" .. and non functional when off (in case someone plays with it or you accidently turn signals or hazards.

(Quick run down simplest method assuming you've already wired in the above 3 wire switch.

Look at the fuse/Relay box... you will see an O/G wire with a pigtail coming off it from the fuse to the relay. Cut it as close to the fuse as possible

Brown wire (just under seat fuse side cut into the harness there and you will see it.)  Tap into it with a fused 10a wire and run that to the end of the O/G going into the relay...

Presto....

What we did:

The OEM O/G setup not only powers up the signals but also other circuits... We isolated the signals with it's own fuse thus allowing the O/G wire to power up the other circuits as OEM & the Brown wire is now fused for your position light and signals.

Not trying to resurrect the dead here but thought I should update my input on this topic.  Had the set up now for a year and found the setup had some feedback issues and having the relay in there was unneeded connections...

So for those of you that want to have Hazzards on 97-2004, that will function when the key is in the "P" or "on" position here's a cleaner setup.  Happen to find a diagram for the 04-K4 Vz800 (Mr. Suzuki decided to begin adding one there..)

Wirings simple.  Parts needed 2 1N4001 or 1N4004 diodes

Look at the fuse/Relay box... you will see an O/G wire with a pigtail coming off it from the fuse to the relay (fuse 4). Cut ONLY the O/G wire that goes to the relay as close to the fuse as possible

Brown wire (just under seat fuse side cut into the harness there and you will see it.) Tap and run that to the "+" side of the Relay (O/G wire that you just cut)

Now we need to add the diodes Use the attached image if it gets confusing... if anyone needs help just msg.

This will stop backfeed.
Connect the two diodes on the Cathode end (have the two banded end facing each other) you should now have 3 leads, one from each Anode and the two Cathodes into one. Go to the harness that feeds the Turn signal indicator at the speedo.

Snip the LG wire and connect the Cathode end of the diodes to that part of the wire that runs back into the indicator.  Now connect one of the end wires from your Hazzard switch to the other end of the LG wire (going back into the harness)

Now connect one Anode lead of the diodes to the other end of the LG wire (going back into the harness)

At that harness snip the other wire that goes to the indicator "B" and attach that to the B/W wire at the harness to the end going to the speedo cluster. And connect the other Anode lead to the B wire going back in the harness.

Now Tap in the last two leads from the Hazzard button. The Middle wire to the Lb/L (neg side of relay) and the last end wire to the B wire going back into the harness.

And done. By a adding in the diodes this prevents the backfeed caused when the indicator on the speedo was activated and searching for a ground.. This should allow you to use the Hazzards when the key is on or in P positions.

Clever stuff like this is always needed.

Cheers!