Drive lubrication

Gents,

I assume that they should be greased up a fair bit and not hardly noticeable?

Yes, also check the drive shaft at both ends. The end furthest away from you will be easily checked as it is easily checked & greased by simply undoing the 3 nuts that secure the drive into position, which will allow removal of the drive & shaft as a complete unit.
It may want to check the drive shaft end that is within the large drive but this will require a new seal to be ordered as the inspection will damage the seal at that end. Very easy to check and degrease & well worth doing. Especially on a 2003 model, don't be surprised if the drive shaft is as dry. This should all be routine maintenance.

Does make sense to do maintenance once the wheel is off. I'll take the shaft off to inspect as well.
Is the seal available widely? As in from wemoto for example?

Hello,
Nothing wrong with buying a new seal,, very prudent and wise,,,, saying that I generally get the old seal off to remove the driveshaft from the housing by tipping the housing downwards a little and pouring boiling water over the seal,,, it tends to expand the metal carcass of the seal loosening its grip and making it easier to pop off making it reusable after inspecting it for signs of damage or ware.

Cheers for the tips.
I'm most likely to replace it due to its age and the fact that it's probably only few quid.

Good suggestion there John!  

Marcin for your seal Robinsons Foundry Canterbury.Have used them very quick and helpful.If I remember about £7.00 well worth the piece of mind doing the job properly,be patient when refitting the shaft to bike as fitting back into engine can be a pain or straight forward.It is only lining the shaft up but can be one pain in the arse.

Amen to that Alfie, mine took me 10 minutes of cursing n foul language etc, walked away, had a brew & tried again & straight in the bitch!!!

Make sure the bikes in gear when feeding the shaft back into the U/V joint and use some gasket glue on the metal plate between the hub and swing arm to keep moisture out, you'll get the drive bolts into the swing arm by hand but you'll have to use the nut's to pull it together for the last 5-7mm due to the pressure of the spring behind the shaft. Oh! wear your blue gloves! that molly paste is a pain to get off! and it seems to have a mind of it's own and go everywhere!  

Right gents...

Can someone post a link to:
- seal in question (it might be just me but I can't find anything on that Robinsons Foundry alfie)
- gasket glue (?)

I think for disassembly, I can just follow the VS1400 installation post to see what needs to be removed. (just 3 screws to get the shaft out if I'm correct?)
Also, which seal we're talking about here?

Also #2 - I got a can of Carlube Moly Grease. Can I use that or does anyone have any horror stories with regards to this product?

Seal No 36, Take the OEM part No
http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-vl800z-volusia-2001-2004-c50-t-z-2005-usa_model16314/seal-oil-30x45x15_0928330051/#.U30eONJdWSo
Gasket glue
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Hermetite-Red-Semi-Hardening-Gasket-Comp-50g-/390664842582?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5af5706d56
Yes three nuts to remove the drive and the same seal as above, you'll need Honda Moly Paste or equiv for lubing the splines.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AS60-60-Moly-Assembly-Paste-100-gram-/131195233326?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item1e8bd8642e

Cheers Sim,

That's very much appreciated.

Just curious...why this particular moly and not just any moly?

Think I answered myself...
Just managed to find tech sheet for Carlube.
Just 2% MoS2

I lubricated the wheel - drive gear with what I got (Carlube Moly) and chucked it together.
I realised that once I start taking everything apart I'll have the bike on the jack till no end.
Same as with exhaust, I thought...fuck it.
That's winter maintenance thing, not here and definitely not now.

Bike assembled and ready to roll.