Winter Battery Care

Just wondered if the guys that don't get to ride as often as the would like use float chargers or maybe even those that do use them as well?
I have mates that plug there bikes in to a float charger every time they park up at home and others that randomly plug the bike in just to give the battery a boost. That's the good thing about bike float chargers, you don't have to mess about getting to the battery every time you want to charge it because the lead is accessible all the time.
I personally plug in to the float charger all year around when I park up, but the electrics are actually only ever on to my workshop when I am pottering around but that seems to work fine.
I use the Oxford 3800 which I paid about £25 for when George Whites had one of their crazy sales on LINK

I have also used this charger on a car battery that my older charger said was bolloxed but this one brought it back to life!

What do you use, if you do?
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A professional switch mode charger with 3 power settings, which automatically maintains, optimises and prolongs the life of any 12V battery. This sophisticated battery management system uses micro-processor control to select the optimum charging profile, performs sequenced checks on the battery and displays both its condition and charging status on a back-lit screen = no more flat batteries!Automated 12V battery management

* 3 power modes: motorcycle, car & maximum
* 7 stage management for MF, Gel and acid batteries
* Tests, analyses, recovers & bulk charges
* Checks, advises (on screen) & maintains
* Suitable for all 12V batteries up to 130Ah
* Can be left permanently connected to the battery

I have never thought of needing something like this. There is no such concept of wintering a bike over here. It is definitely a different world.

I keep my bike on float charge all year round using the Optimate 4, she's always ready to go. I used to have both bikes connected and even then I didn't notice an increase in my electricity bill. It is interesting to know what folks do, we all seem to have different methods.




Optimate 4
Automatic self-diagnostic test: Immediately on connection, the microprocessor checks the circuit and flashes all LEDs (except charge current LEDs) to confirm correct operation. Dual-stage recovery action: If the diagnostic check determines that the battery is sulphated (deep-discharged), the first stage attempts to drive in an initial current by applying up to 16V for a brief limited period. If this is unsuccessful, the TURBO recovery stage engages (indicated by a flashing recovery LED), which increases the applied voltage to up to 22V. This action is limited to a maximum two hours. Charge current display: A thermometer style central LED column shows delivered current. This, together with the expanded charge programme status LED information provides the user with detailed insight regarding the progress of both the state of charge and the state of health of the battery. High efficiency: Despite delivering 33% more power than OptiMate 3sp, OptiMate 4 consumes less electricity, which is welcome in these days of high energy costs and eco-awareness. Enhanced battery testing: Green, yellow and red "traffic-light" LEDs indicate alone or in combinations to provide 5 possible results of the end-of-programme test for power drain, whether in the battery or due to a problem in the bike's electrical system.

icetechaus wrote:

I have never thought of needing something like this. There is no such concept of wintering a bike over here. It is definitely a different world.

Ya Lucky Baaarstard ! ( say in Aussie accent for full effect )

i keep mine float charged all year round like Bo then it's always ready to go!

I think when we had snow last year I did not ride for about 5 days. Battery was fine. Just as a matter of interest how long before a fully charged battery makes starting iffy just standing -2 weeks/1 month ? I suppose now bikes have a headlight on with one key turn, this reduces battery efficiency for starting.

I have an Optimate my bike is plugged into it all the time it's in the garage.(hope the battery do'nt cook).

pledge wrote:

I have an Optimate my bike is plugged into it all the time it's in the garage.(hope the battery do'nt cook).

That's exactly what they are for, they will only trickle a little as and when the battery needs it

Bluesman wrote:

Just as a matter of interest how long before a fully charged battery makes starting iffy just standing -2 weeks/1 month ?

That's the million dollar question and depends on the condition of your battery. I have had batteries on bikes for years without an issue, I have also had them be trashed after a single season. The good thing about a battery tender is that it will always keep the battery in tip top condition. The most important time for caring for a battery is the winter, lack of use and extreme cold will often turn a good battery bad and it can do that quickly but as for a time scale, no one can answer that one.

Bluesman wrote:

I suppose now bikes have a headlight on with one key turn, this reduces battery efficiency for starting.

Bikes that have the headlight on all the time, which I believe is all EU road bikes since 2003 will usually take the power away from the headlight whilst the ignition starter is in operation leaving all the power for the starter motor. however I think if a battery is low then the last thing it needs is a massive suck of the battery power that the headlight takes up before the ignition starter is used.

my 'summer' batteries get removed from their respective machines and go on a float type of charger all winter. I could hook them all up at once and let the machine work, but I like keeping an eye on them so every weekend I take a few seconds to switch the charger to each battery in turn for that week. Lets me check the acid level should any need it, keeps 'em charged, no sulfation and increases the battery life.

Interesting all this battery care stuff and I'm impressed how you guys lengthen the lives of yours. I suppose I'm a bit lazy and if a battery appeared past its best would buy a new one (cars or bikes). I guess it helps if you use the vehicles nearly all the time.As I use my bikes and cars at least every other day at the moment, I'm ok, but if for any reason I need to lay one up, particularly in winter, I'll remember the advice above.

I suppose in reality you probably have the best battery care that there is, regular use

yep no substitute for regular use wifes car is 7 years old never knew there was a problem with the battery till she was made redundant after the car was stood for 4 days it was flat after testing it showed only 45% life and had to be replaced

Very good example of how a bad battery is found out

yea i agree MrI but i would'nt recomend it

smart wrote:

yea i agree MrI but i would'nt recomend it

Well I am glad we got that cleared up

what life expectancy should we expect from our batteries on the basis of regular use in summer and laid up in winter

No answer can be given to that I have had them last for a year or two and last for many years

Gents,

With winter coming I'm starting to look around for some battery care stuff, among other things.

Oxford 3800 seems to be a good choice if a bit dear but for some reason I've read quite a lot of bad stuff about it... that it breaks, is unreliable, doesn't do what it says on the box etc....
I always assume that it's the plonkers commenting so I'd like to ask you guys what you think about this (or similar) equipment and is it worth the price.
Currently at about 70 quid.

Cheers

Oxford stuff is pretty good usually marcin, I have 2 of there cheapo battery chargers,Oximiser 600 and they both do what it says on the tin with no fuss,
About twenty quid each and I've had my first one 9 years now without fault

I would agree with Simbo, I bought the dear one because I needed one for the car as well so it made sense but if I was buying just for the bike I would buy the cheap one for sure

Gotta agree with Sim and Crash, get the cheapest one you can find if its only to use on the bike.

Hmm the car is used non stop to commute so unlikely to have problems.
Oximiser 600 it is then.... Since I'm not missing out on useful features over 3800 I don't see a point spending so much more

Good evening everyone, have been reading this article with interest, although called sealed batteries they can be topped up with distilled water, carefully prise the plastic cover off, under here are a row off cap valves, remove these and put them to one side in a clean container, be carefull as they have a nasty habit of pinging out of your fingers if not gripped tightly, a pair of snipe nose pliers work well, use a hypodermic syringe and put distilled water in so it just covers the plates, do this to every cell then replace the caps, put a spot of glue ie. bostick on the plastic cover and replace it, what happens is every time you charge the bike a certain amount of electrolyte gases and escapes past the valve cap and is gone for good, and the battery slowly becomes drier and drier until it stops becoming conductive, we topped up Mr Intruders battery last year and as far as I know it is still OK. plus I ran it on my desulphater for a while, this works by taking voltage from the battery and then kicking back a higher amperage back into the battery at about 50 cycles per second which knocks the sulphate that builds up off the plates, have been desulphating quite a few batteries now with good results, this unit is about the size of a cigarette packet and costs less then a fiver to build. There is a site dedicated to this and all the members are very helpful, I am currently building a more powerful unit at the moment and have invested in an oscilliscope to help with the tests, If anyone the site is YUKU then look for battery desulphation, if you have any problems or questions please contact me, This could save many people the cost of buying a battery on a regular basis, have also fitted a solar panel on my friends garage roof down to his bike battery through a charge controller, this will also help keep your battery charge up and the charge controller will stop you battery being overcharged, both of these were purchased from Maplins at a very reasonable price, hope this helps regards to you all Doc Cox. E=MC2

Hi
I just bought an Oximiser 900

LIKE THIS

I bought it because my bike woulnt start.... wasnt sure if it was the battery or not... lots of strange buzzing & humming noises. Connected the Oximiser & it seemed to restore the battery.

But bike still wouldnt start. In desperation I threw some readies at a mobile bike mechanic, who did various lecky tests & said he thought the battery was knackered.

He had brought one with him (in case), so connected it up & all was well. Bike started at a touch.

He said the weird buzzing etc was probably the starter solenoid struggling to work...

SO ........... all sorted, but do I trust my brand new battery with my brand new Oximiser? I think I probably will.

PS..... Oximiser has either croc clips, or a quick release plug you can can wire to the batttery permanently. Any of you folks done that? If so, where did you run the cable & plug through to? I'm thinking the tool box panel.

Apologies for long rambling thread but this thread links nicely into my other thread on the very same mechanical woes.

Hi Mal I've connected direct to the battery and the socket just hangs from the left side panel for ease of connection when my bike is in the garage.

Good read Doc Cox, your obviously a good guy to have on the forum

simbo wrote:

Hi Mal I've connected direct to the battery and the socket just hangs from the left side panel for ease of connection when my bike is in the garage.

I have done the same, mine just sticks out from below the the seat over the right side panel.

captain crash wrote:

Good read Doc Cox, your obviously a good guy to have on the forum

Cleverest guy I know, thats a fact.