Electronic Cruise Control for the C50T

I'm planning on installing cruise control on my little girl and was wondering if there was enough interest to post ongoing with pics. It wouldn't happen all at once but as time permitted.

I AM IN NO WAY a mechanic. I have no credentials expressed or implied in this type of work. This is not recognized as a correct modification to their motorcycle. Anyone attempting this install based on my presentation does so entirely at their own risk, peril, and determination. I will in no way be held responsible for or to anyone copying or attempting any part of what I am presenting here.

Here' s what's in the box... the vacuum cannister, cruise module, switch, various connectors, cable wrap, tubing etc..
...

and it's actually all under here



only to see if it would fit before I committed (got committed?) to it fully.


Here's a pic of the evap cannister holder that is exclusively designed for the model E-33 California bikes. It does have two little flanges that join on to the rubber box behind it, but besides that has no use whatsoever. It's too bad because if the oem cannister were just a touch larger in diameter the cruise module would have been a no brainer. As it is it's just in the way and makes it impossible to mount the module - let alone the vacuum cannister - out of sight. A note that riders on other sites I've seen showing css-100 installs make their own vacuum cannisters out of pvc and mount them down by the rear shock. Guess I'm not that adventurous.



and here's the space it opens up making the install possible



As the destruction continues, this is the view that awaits those of us who have never changed the plugs on their ride....tank removed. This model only has two plugs, later ones have 4 but I don't know what year they started that, this being the '06 which is when I believe they went to FI from carburated. I"m hoping in all this mess is a vacuum hose I'll be able to tap in to. Also, notice all the linkage at the bottom left of the big black rubber thingie...that's where we'll be hooking up. Specifically, to the throttle 'wheel' right in front of it. Hard to see in this pic. This shot is from the saddle position.

Here's a close up of the throttle wheel. What you can't see at about the 1 o'clock position is a small finger, or tang. I'm taking a cue from another install I had read and am going to drill a small hole in it to put a clip thru and connect to the cruise cable using a number of fittings generously supplied in the kit. But there's a catch.
In order to drill that hole, you'll need to roll the throttle almost full on (a buddy is helpful here) so it rotates to about 11 O''clock so you can see it from the side and then use an extension as shown here (minus the drill bit)so you can reach it. The chuck on the drill is just too big to fit but it's slick as anything with the extension. I'm sure a Dremel with it's remote chuck will do as good a job.

This mount will be bolted to the rearward most bolt on the front cylinder. You can just see it at the bottom left of the side view pic. The cruise cable will mount in one of the slotted mounts.


It would be a comparatively long thread, but may be useful to the odd person like myself. Comments and critiques welcome.

Not a great lot to present this time, just the hole I managed to drill.
I had my wife hold the throttle open, held a flashlight in my teeth and drilled a 1/16" hole, then widened it to 1/8". That's the top frame rail in front of my finger. I got this side on shot by rolling the throttle forward and wedging my index finger in against the tang which itself is hard against the forward stop (you can see the return 'push' cable to the left). Note the electric tape on that wire?...that's my rear spark plug lead, the result of using the regular drill with no extension. The chuck spun against it resulting in a slight wear on the
outside of the plug wire. Not thru, but I wrapped it in thin rubber and electrical tape for good measure. Its not visible in the finished job. Lesson learned. Next up is securing the cruise cable/servo.


This is the assembly that will connect to the hole drilled in the throttle wheel earlier. I picked up a #5 snap swivel from the sports section at Walmart. So far it's the only part not included with the kit. In the photo, the top is the before, bottom shows the top 'eye' removed and inserted in the kit supplied bead chain connector. Open
the wide end of the clip, put thru the hole, snap it closed and hopefully the most diffiicult part of the whole install is done. Once Ihave this completed I'll secure the cruise cable and connect it up.


This is the cable mount that gets bolted to the rearward bolt on the forward cylinder (the one closest to the throttle assembly). It's been modified from it's original configuration by turning the mounting hole into a slot, and bending it upward to have the slotted mount on the side line up with the bead chain connector on the throttle and dodge the push/pull cables. I'm sure it'll take a few tries to get the angle right. That's all I have for now.


This shot is of the cruise module cable and bead connector. There are two connectors. This one is clamped to the ball on the end of the cable. The open end is attached to a short length of bead chain. The chain then connects to the bead connector/snap swivel on the throttle. The bead chain is to provide a small amount of slack so as not to interfere with the throttle closing all the way


This shows the mount for the module cable. It's attached by the rearwardmost bolt on the top of the front cylinder


This is just to show the cable -- or lack of cable -- visible. A very small section is just seen below the round tank mount. That will not be visible when the tank is re-installed.

The module and vacuum lines are next. Comments and critiques welcome.


Here's one of a couple of ideas I may or may not devote any time to. Double checking that the throttle worked correctly got me to thinking about the slackness in the cable/bead chain when using the throttle normally. In cruise is not an issue, but rolling the throttle manually lets the chain sag down toward the throttle stop. The stop itself isn't very wide (sticking out from the engine) so the chain goes to the side but not far enough down even at full throttle to catch on anything (I think I wore out the throttle spring proving this to myself) but I'd rather not even have a whisper of a thought that it might. Here's the throttle stop beside the wheel assembly


A small piece of tubing wedged over it to make the stop wider would do the job, but I found a small file clip does the job admirably, holds tight, doesn't get in the way of anything and is removable. I drew a schematic to better show my twisted logic.

...and here it is onthe bike.

This bit of backyard engineering may not even be necessary, I merely present it as something to consider -- and to be aware of. One less surprise to encounter.

I'm installing the servo unit and vacuum cannister. There's a 10 pin connector that goes to the back of the servo. There's also a plug to remove for standard transmission use. The settings in the back of the unit should be switches 1 and 7 on, switches 2,3,4,5,6 off. Wiring will be pretty straight forward. It looks complicated, partly because they give you such great lengths of it! I'll shoot each one as I do it.
Basically, it's ground, coil, keyed power, brake switch. Anyway, from the vacuum cannister I've run a vacuum line from the amp outlet to the servo. I've also run a vacuum line from the man fitting to tee off of the engine when lo and behold, the oem line is smaller diameter! Another delay. Hmmm, must see if the wife is
chanting funny things over tea leaves again. oh well... I"ve secured the servo with zip ties. I also drilled a hole in the bracket for a bolt to hold it using the original cannister mounting point. Vacuum can
is zipped also. This is shot from rear right.


Here's the control pad. I'll make a nice mount for it that will fit at the mirror base on the throttle side. I'm used to it located there on the Wing so its a comfortable action. The control pad is smaller than the brake unit and will fit behind it quite nicely. I show this to give you a look at a trick I use when adding stuff. I wrapped the wires in
electrical tape and slid a length of heat shrink tubing over it and shrank (shrunk?..shrinked?) it down. It looks like a normal cable among all the others. The 4pin clip was added after. The two longer wires are black ground and a grey pad lighting wire.

...and
Captain, I think it's just my phobia for trying to cover all the bases
and show everything that makes it look like a lot of work.

This is a shot of the vacuum connection. I found from the manual it was the IAP line. Hard to find buried under a couple of other hoses, but easy to identify as it has a red stripe! The stripe isn't visible here but trust me. I need only splice in to one of the two IAP hoses as the cruise module is a closed system meaning it holds vacuum so it'll balance. It was explained I don't have to splice into both (though I may yet) lines due to this. I found the easiest place to splice was up near the actual sensor near the front.


This white connector is the connection for the negative coil on the left side of the bike. Talk about having a hard time finding it! I must have looked for 10 minutes before it dawned on me it was under a rubber flap and could be viewed from underneath. Here the edge of the rubber is being held back. That round thing on the left is one of the holes for the neck side cover.


This is a closer picture of the negative coil connection, but with the blue wire from the cruise control connected to it.


This is the servo end of the wire harness. I have it threaded up to the neck area where the control pad connector will join it. There's one red wire from this, a "key on" power lead that will connect under the seat, as well as a ground wire from the switch harness that will connect to the negative battery post battery



There are two wires leading off to the bottom of the photo. They're not connected yet but everything else in the photo is. I have things bundled up out of the way for the most part. The purple wire is the brake interrupt, it connects to the white wire under the seat so the front or rear brake will disengage the cruise. The red wire is another power wire that will connect under the seat to a 'key on' power source.
Notice the vacuum connections. The install is starting to look a bit cleaner now. I'm in the home stretch!



This is a mockup of the control panel placement. It's quite easy to thumb. I'll create a mount that will be trapped between the mirror stem and base. It's a lot simpler than it sounds.


After some creative cursing and simple brute force, every thing fits behind the cover. Tightly, but it fits. I tried moving the end of the vacuum cable in and out and it slides quite easily so there's no binding. So far so good...


Well, the major stuff is done. Here are the connections at the battery for ground, and at the connector for the disconnect (you can't see it as it's taped up but its the white wire) and key on power (agan, taped
up but it's the brown wire)


Here's the connector for the keypad and cruise module/harness. I got lucky with wiring placement as I can jam a bunch of it behind the neck area where it won't be seen.


Here's the template for the mount that the keypad is going on. The yellow is the cardboard template. The black lines are the fold points. The metal beside is what I'll be using after its edges have been smoothed out and a slot drilled in the center for the wires to go thru.


Curious. Did the smoke test the other night (turned it on) and it passed. No smoke, no fuses blown....but an odd, very low hard-to-pick up volume whine. Think of a smoke alarm but at 1/100000 the volume. Odd because:

a: the bike is not running
b: its only present in neutral with run (kill) switch 'on'.
c: not present with run (kill) switch 'off' but still in neutral
c: not present when the bike is running
d: no error on the lcd
hmmm...
The only thing I've tapped in to elecrically is the negative side of the left coil. The ground (earth?) for both ground wires is the negative battery pole. There's a noise eliminator in-line supplied with the kit, it works. 'Course, if this is the noise it's supposed to prevent, obviously not, but current flows so that says it does. Maybe just one of those things.... any ideas? Doesn't bother me, just piques my curiosity.

EDIT: The whine went on its own

Just a couple of pics to show the mount. I don't think I'm going to paint it as it's not really going to show all that much, only the top and the side edge. If I do paint it, I'll probably decide on stainless or some sort of aluminum/silver.


Comments welcome.

Before mounting the control pad, it needs to be water proofed. The unit is designed to be out of the weather (read wet) so some sealing is in order.

This shows the pad face plate panel removed and the rubber switch cover. I'll put RTV inside the face plate and re install the rubber cover. That will prevent any water from entering via the switches.


I've re-assembled the panel. In so doing I've stuffed it full of RTV silicone to stop water at the back seams. Note also I've plugged where the 6 wires come out. That area will be sheltered from the elements for the most part but I may as well do a full job. As messy as it appears, that white square is simply the backing for the double sided adhesive underneath it. It will attach the panel to the mountng plate I made.




Also, one other thing. The grey wire's only function is to light the panel. It makes the on/off set/reset switches glow green all the time. I decided I only want the small central dot between the switches to glow when I'm actually using the cruise. When I press the on switch, the little dot glows green. Turn the unit off, and the dot goes off. I didn't cut off the wire as I may chose to use it at some future time or if I take it off when and if I ever sell her.

And with this post, it's done. And a few pics to show that there's...

nuthin' to see here....


...or here...



which was a large part of the whole point....or something like that.

...but you can see this


I'll let you know how the road test went. Thanx for letting me post progress on here. It was a fun, sometimes vexating project. But the next one will be a lot easier! Things I'd change? I'd build a better mount for sure. The one I have is ok, but it's thin metal so I don't know how long it's going to last. I'd also give more time to finding another mount for the cruise cable. I'm sure the cylinder head is OK though. Time will tell. And if I were to do it to this bike again, I'd say goodbye to the toolbox and mount it all on the left side where there's tons of room. Anyway, if there are any questions you may have where I confused the hell out of you (besides myself), I'd be happy to try to further confound the issue. Thanx again for letting me have the room. Hope the install was of Interest.

Mike

I always did like to see a good story unfold
So now I've read the beginning, I would like to get to the middle and end

Good shout Farmboy, would be great to see how this pans out.
I was thinking of installing one of those but only added a throttle boss instead which to be honest I am very happy with. However if yours goes well for you I will probably give it a go to

Great that your doing this Farmboy,very interesting. :yeahman:
if its ok with you I will grab each section that you write when the mod is complete and put it all together for continuity of your excellent write up.

Hmmmmmm this looks complicated, hell of a lot of wires there

Excellent write up so far Farmboy
Great detail and expaination, thanks.

I concur Crash! This is the sort of input that that will really help someone out or even give them the confidence to do it in the first place

Glad it all seems to be working out.
As for the lesson learned :shithhappens: we've all been there.

Brave of you to attempt the job in the first place, most would put it in the garage for this type of job

Gotta say it, you really are an inspiration.
Quite a job your doing there

Thanks Intruder, glad it's of interest! Hope it's not overkill with the postings but I've found any installs I've seen on line are terribly shy with pics or detailed explanation. I keep re-reading my posts to see if it's convoluted in any step and need clarification. If anything gets too wordy or needs additional (or better) photos. I'll do my best to accomodate.

The more pictures in a post the better without a doubt especially complicated task like this one
I am very interested in this post myself as I may very well do it on my bike
No such thing as overkill, underkill is the problem

Bloody Hell this is an even bigger job than I at least thought at the outset

Great write-up so far, really appreciate the time that your putting in to this thread
How strange! I have texted a good friend of mine who's into electrics for him to take a look at what you have posted regarding the strange noise.
I am sure he will know why your getting the noise at least
He probably wont be arsed to join the forum just to post a response but I am sure he will get back to me one way or another.

Thanx Intruder, 'preciate it.
Mike.

Wow what an amazing project, great job
Thanks for posting this it has been great to see it come along from the beggining, really interesting.
Jobs like this will always end up with you thinking I could have done it slightly different but being the first to post a job like this is always the hardest.
I am sure your post on this project will inspire others to do the same or similar, including me

That’s one hell of a write up, what a task. Very very interesting.
100% credit to you my friend, what an asset you are to the site.
I for one will be looking forward to hearing how it has road tested & look forward with great anticipation to anything else you do.

I wasn't sure if anyone would be halfways interested in something like this but you proved that theory crap! Thanx for the shouts...you guys are too cool! As for the road test, I chose a nearby hilly section of the TransCanada, set it at 110 kmh, and I'm here to tell you it's a neat sensation when the throttle rolls ahead and back on it's own under your palm. Works great! Thanx again for the use of your site, pleasure's all mine. Any questions, comments or critiques are always welcome
Mike.

This thread has really big view count already so it certainly is generating some interest.

This is simply the road test and results I promised to present. Having the cruise system installed and used on and off (all pun intended) I'm pleased to say that it works wonderfully. A simple press of the on rocker switch and the small central dot lights up green, nothing else. As mentioned in the thread, if I wanted the whole pad lit all the time the grey wire from the pad should be connected to a key on source. I chose the more discrete display.
Setting speed is just as easy. Press the 'set' rocker while holding speed, let go of the throttle, voila, speed is maintained. I chose a few hilly areas to see how well it reacted with only a couple of kph in variance before one can mostly hear the engine gradually pulling the motorcycle ahead to speed, backing off as it's reached with no choppy on or off of the throttle.
The resume function is a no brainer. After using the brake or clutch to disengage the unit, getting back up to speed is a simple matter. Resume. It takes you there. I've only used resume when within 5 or 10 kmh in the vicinity of the desired preset. I'm satisfied. The accel/coast functions work as claimed. A quick press or tap of the rocker for the selected function results in minute adjustments to speed settings. If one holds the accel switch for a few seconds, you'll basically get the new speed setting you expect. The coast feature is a bit more...lax. Press the coast rocker and the bike begins to decelerate. If you hold it to the desired speed setting you'll find it falls further than expected eg: I held it from 100 to 90 kmh, and ended up just above 85. No big deal, just a quirk that's easily learned and adapted to.
Overall I'm very satisfied with the unit's functionality. It does everything I want it to do, and that I expected it to when I began the project. For an aftermarket electronic mod not specifically designed for a motorcycle, it really shines. It's also discrete in it's appearance, which is a big plus! I will be changing the locale of the switchpad from the throttle side to the left. As it's now installed, the thumb reach/stretch is about the same distance as that of the factory cruise function on the Goldwing, the distance on the Boulevard is horizontal, not vertical as the wing has it, and reaching around the aluminum switch housing while trying to hold the throttle can be potentially distracting. It'll do for now. Maybe I'll change it over the winter. And one final observation. The concerns I had about the bead chain interfering or getting in the way of the manual throttle haven't materialized, and bonus: that mysterious barely audible whistle/whine I had for awhile is no longer present. Maybe cause the tank was off at the time?...whatever it was, it isn't anymore.
Question: Would I install another cruise control unit on another bike? Answer: You bet!

Farmboy wrote:

Question: Would I install another cruise control unit on another bike? Answer: You bet!

Thats great to here, and once again thanks for a brilliant write up.
The fact that you have gone to all that effort and are prepared to do it again speaks volumes

Fantastic, really pleased that after all that hard work its as required

Thanks for the good words guys. As usual, if anyone is confused on a section of the install where a certain procedure isn't clear I'll try my best to better explain what I had done.

This system is no longer marketed by Audiovox but is still available on line (as evidenced by my install). Anyway, the kit I got didn't even come with the install manual though was complete in every other way. One is able to get the original manual from where they order it on line, or, have a look at it here. Remember this was originally marketed as a car install kit and is for your reading pleasure and continued confusion. Enjoy.

LINK

Very good article, and well presented, you did mention having an electrical noise when everything is turned off, have you managed to locate roughly where the sound is coming from, it might be possible to stop this by using a capacitor or a torroid ring (you can get a cream for this problem) these are found in printers, old type computer monitors and televisions, and look like black graphite rings with wires wound round to help supress electrical noise, a bit of experimentation will be needed, the idea is to find a power supply lead from the kit and wind it through the torroid a couple of times, this may help to cancel out the noise, you may even need a couple of them, hope this has given you food for thought, regards Doc Cox, E=MC 2

Doc Cox wrote:

have you managed to locate roughly where the sound is coming from

This may sound crazy but it works. If you cut a short length of tube possibly 2-3ft long. Hold one end to your ear and move they other end in and around the newly fitted components you will be able to pin point exactly the source of the noise.

Thanx for the tips guys. If the sound presents itself again the next time I have the tank off I'll try to locate it exactly. The best my ear could isolate it was near the air intake where I spliced in to the IAP vacuum line. Maybe it was the IAP sensor itself due to this line losing it's vacuum when I did the splice? As mentioned, it's now ok, or sounds (doesn't sound?) it.

Quote :

you did mention having an electrical noise when everything is turned off

Just so we're clear Doc, the ignition (and it's related functions eg: lights, FI pump) was turned on but nothing else

Quote :

Did the smoke test the other night (turned it on) and it passed. No smoke, no fuses blown....but an odd, very low hard-to-pick up volume whine.

but thankfully that sound has dissapeared...for the moment. Thanx again for your suggestion.

Mike

No problems Mike ( I am the good friend who probably couldn't be arsed to join, see me after prayers tomorrow young David)
I will be keeping my eye out to see if I can help anyone, now all I have to do is keep badgering my friend to get some steel tube so we can crack on with the removable baffle project for his bike, regards Doc Cox

Doc Cox wrote:

I will be keeping my eye out to see if I can help anyone

It would be appreciated mate, I have found your depth of knowledge unbelievable over the years

Doc Cox wrote:

Now all I have to do is keep badgering my friend to get some steel tube so we can crack on with the removable baffle project for his bike

Yeah we will get on to that Doc, time is the issue, I will have to see if I can make some

I am working on installing my elecronic cruise right now on my 08 c50t. I have done all the wiring and vacum and all I have left is the linkage to connect my cruise cable to the throttle. I have drilled the small hole and followed your suggestion on the hookup but I have not bolted on the cable mount but have bent it. I am afraid it looks as though the ball chain can fall between throttle body and the stop and bind the throttle from opening up all the way. How many balls did you use and what keeps the chain from falling down and causing the throttle to not open all the way up? Thanks in advance, John P.S. Great work on this article!!

Hi John

Quote :

And one final observation. The concerns I had about the bead chain interfering or getting in the way of the manual throttle haven't materialized

Quote :

Here's one of a couple of ideas I may or may not devote any time to. Doublechecking that the throttle worked correctly got me to thinking about the slackness in the cable/bead chain when using the throttle normally. In cruise is not an issue, but rolling the throttle manually lets the chain sag down toward the throttle stop. The stop itself isn't very wide (sticking out from the engine) so the chain goes to the side but not far enough down even at full throttle to catch on anything (I think I wore out the throttle spring proving this to myself) but I'd rather not even have a whisper of a thought that it might. Here's the throttle stop beside the wheel assembly


A small piece of tubing wedged over it to make the stop wider would do the job, but I found a small file clip does the job admirably, holds tight, doesn't get in the way of anything and is removable. I drew a schematic to better show my twisted logic.

...and here it is onthe bike.

This bit of backyard engineering may not even be necessary, I merely present it as something to consider -- and to be aware of. One less suprise to encounter.

The amount of bead link I used was 3 or 4 balls. Reflecting on it, I was thinking of even mounting the bracket on the forward bolt of the rear cylinder head instead of the rear one if I had had a problem, or, not using chain at all. As it works fine right now I'm not about to change it, but if opportunity has me tearing it apart I will do one (or both) of those changes

I have been thinking as well. I am thinking of putting a short piece of heat shrink over the part that appears to be or is able to fall down between the top tab and the stop. This would "in theory" keep the cable stiff over the stop to keep it from sagging there. Next I thought about your delima with the length of the stop being as short as it is and thought about bending a small piece of steel to make a 90 degree bracket and using the screw above the stop to hold it. I could then enclode the stop and keep the shrink tubing from being able to fall over the side. As a third note the kit comes with a small screw with a nut and a conector to connect to the ball chain. If I drill a little bigger hole I could use that instead of the swivel and maybe have less to catch on, but its really hard to get into that area and the screw is just a little tight. I will give you an update and pick when I get done. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate all the work you have done and your quick reply!! john

Quote :

I am thinking of putting a short piece of heat shrink over the part that appears to be or is able to fall down between the top tab and the stop

. That sounds like where I may be headed if and when I may adjust things. Good thinking.

Excellant write up Mike,well worth reading and following your progress,well in.

Laggy band wrapped round the throttle tube and mirror stalk ought to do it without all this messing about .... lol



Seriously though Farmboy, great write up , respect to ya buddy....



Mick

great write up farmboy very informative

Seems like this should be set up as a sticky. that way it will be available for all to see in one place and saved without searching through all the posts.

Chuckles

This thread has been in the top two read threads constantly since it was posted, there is also on the front page of the site on the right hand side. not sure how much more publicity a top read thread needs!

Here's the site I got mine from. To my knowledge it's still available.

Murph's Kits

Farmboy, as the cruise control is still available. I may have to look into this in the near future. Thanks for the info. If I do decide to get this unit, may I assume I may contact you for any help and info I may need?

Chuckles

Chuck, as the disclaimer says, I'm no mechanic and assume no liability. If you have a question as to how I did something in my personal install and my good-time-in-the-70's brain can remember it, I'll happily pass that info on. Anything to further confound the issue! 8)