Changing Handlebars '13 plate VZ800

Hi, 
Does anybody know whether or not it's possible to change the bars on a VZ800 Intruder to a more 'Fatboy' style without having to alter cables?
I have purchased some risers that are only 1" high so, that should give me some play...
Also are there any videos on how to swap bars?
I only ask because I struggle with anything mechanical!!!
Regards
Graham

Hi Graham, Alfie put VL800 bars on his M800 for more pull back if that's the type of thing your after? He just re-routed some of the cable's to give him more play.
https://www.suzuki800.com/t1528-vl-bars-fitted-to-a-suzuki-m50-m800?highlight=bars

Looks like Alfie kept the original risers, is that correct? I'm going to change mine to 1".

Hi Graham yes kept the original risers for they lift the bars over the tank.I put all my cables in front of trees which gives you an extra couple of inches on length,as a precaution I would advise you to take the tank off,it makes you feel at lot more comfortable when messing with bar replacement.If you are looking at Harley bars make sure you get the 1" (25mm) ones not the 11/4" (28mm).I find mine great now,on saying that I have also looked at drag bars,so I can change the riding position and kid myself that it is a new bike now and again.Once you have done the job you will realise how easy it is to do,just plan it and take your time.

Hi Alfie, thanks for that. Good advice I feel. I am looking out for 1" bars now, not sure what to get though, I might try and find some poor condition low priced secondhand ones so I can get the feel of how it will all fit together and whether or not I need to cut the bars to achieve what I'm looking for. To be honest it's changing the controls particularly the throttle side that frightens me most! I shall do some more research, I'm sure it can't be that difficult!

Regards
Graham

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The throttle side is the hard one of the two,things to remember are first do not take the bar end wieght screw all the way out,on both sides,loosen them and in the process pull the bar end wieght until it comes out do this gradually or you will loose the ends in the bars.You may need something like a knife to slip between the grip and the bar on the clutch side to loosen the grip this is normal.When taking the throttle linkage off take your time and take a photo if need be how the cables disconnect so you know which way they go back on,there are two one opens the throttle the other returns it.These jobs are always daughnting to start with,but once done the first time will be easy.The hole you see in the throttle side on the bar is to locate your linkage back up correctly,if you get differnt bars this will not be in the right place so will have to drill it to suit.
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If you are having trouble with the length of the clutch cable then re route it as photo,remembering to disconnect from the lever end and not the engine end,placing the cable up along the cylander then in front of the tree and back into the lever.Hope this helps,give yourself a day to work on it,there may be slight differences but the theory is more or less the same.
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That's great, thank you. My main worry is the throttle cables. I will allow myself plenty of time and remove the tank as you suggest.
Once again, many thanks, I'll keep posting as I go, probably with pictures!

Regards
Graham

Can I just add to Alfie excellent assistance that when I fitted new apes & later other bars, they had no hole for the nipple within the casing on the bars that can be seen in Alfie's pic. I literally just removed the nipple with a grinding attachment fitted to the Dremel & found that they still tightened down very securely indeed.

Good point, I did wonder what I would do if the bars weren't drilled, now I know!
Thanks.
Regards
Graham